French couturier Hubert de Givenchy dead at 91

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French couturier Hubert de Givenchy, a pioneer of ready-to-wear who designed Audrey Hepburn’s little black dress in Breakfast at Tiffany’s, has died at age 91.

The Paris-based House of Givenchy paid homage to its founder, saying in a statement that he was “a major personality of the world of French haute couture and a gentleman who symbolized Parisian chic and elegance for more than half a century.”

“He revolutionized international fashion with the timelessly stylish looks he created for Audrey Hepburn, his great friend and muse for over 40 years,” the statement said.

“His work remains as relevant today as it was then.”

Givenchy was part of the elite cadre of Paris-based designers including Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent and his mentor, Cristobal Balenciaga, who redefined fashion in the wake of the Second World War.

A towering man with impeccable manners, he forged close friendships with his famous clients, from Hollywood screen sirens of the likes of Liz Taylor and Lauren Bacall to women of state, including Jackie Kennedy and Princess Grace of Monaco.

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Givenchy at his Paris design house at Plaine Monceau, circa 1955. (Getty Images)

He was born into an aristocratic family in the provincial city of Beauvais on Feb. 21, 1927. Givenchy struck out for Paris in his late teens.

Couturier Jacques Fath hired Givenchy on the strength of his sketches. He spent two years learning the basics of fashion design, from sketching to cutting and fitting haute couture styles.

After apprenticing with other top names, Givenchy founded his own house in 1952. His debut collection ushered in the concept of separates — tops and bottoms that could be mixed and matched, as opposed to head-to-toe looks that were the norm among Paris couture purveyors.

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Givenchy waits backstage during the presentation of his 1952 spring/summer collection in Paris on Feb. 2, 1952. (AFP/Getty Images)

Working on a tight budget, Givenchy served up the floor-length skirts and country chic blouses in raw white cotton materials normally reserved for fittings.

“Le Grand Hubert,” as he was often called for his 6-foot, 5-inch frame, became popular with privileged haute couture customers, and his label soon seduced the likes of Gloria Guinness, Wallis Simpson and Empress Farah Pahlavi of Iran.

Hepburn, the muse

But the client whose name would become almost synonymous with the house was Audrey Hepburn, whom he met in 1953, when he dressed her for the romantic comedy Sabrina. Legend has it that Givenchy — told only that Mademoiselle Hepburn would be coming in for a fitting — was expecting the grand Katherine Hepburn. Instead, the diminutive Audrey showed up, dressed in cigarette pants, a T-shirt and sandals.

Thus began a decades-long friendship that saw Givenchy dress the star in nearly a dozen films, including the 1961 hit Breakfast at Tiffany’s. The sleeveless black evening gown she wore in the movie, complete with rows of pearls, elbow-length gloves and oversized shades, would end up becoming Givenchy’s most famous look.

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Audrey Hepburn, seen here in the black Givenchy dress made famous in the 1961 film Breakfast at Tiffany’s, was a great friend and muse to the designer. (Ronald Grant Archive/Associated Press)

Aiming to reach a wider market, Givenchy launched a line of upscale ready-to-wear and accessories in the 1960s. Its commercial success soon enabled him to buy out his backers, making him one of only a handful of Paris couturiers to own their own label outright.

In 1988, he sold the house to French luxury conglomerate LVMH, the parent company of a stable of top fashion labels that now includes Dior, Celine, Marc Jacobs, Pucci and Kenzo.

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Givenchy, who retired in 1995, is seen in Calais introducing an exhibition dedicated to his career in 2017. (Philippe Huguen/AFP/Getty Images)

Givenchy retired in 1995. He was succeeded by John Galliano, Alexander McQueen, Julien Macdonald, Italy’s Riccardo Tisci and its current chief designer, Clare Waight Keller, the first woman in the role.

She has been at the helm of the brand since last year, and said on her official Instagram account that she is “deeply saddened by the loss of a great man and artist I have had the honour to meet.”

“Not only was he one of the most influential fashion figures of our time, whose legacy still influences modern day dressing, but he also was one of the chicest most charming men I have ever met,” she wrote.

Bernard Arnault, chief executive of LVMH, said he is “deeply saddened” by the death of the designer.

“He was among those designers who placed Paris firmly at the heart of world fashion post 1950 while creating a unique personality for his own fashion label,” according to a statement released by LVMH.

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The Thyssen-Bornemisza museum in Madrid hosted the first major retrospective devoted to French designer Givenchy in 2014. (Gerard Julien/AFP/Getty Images)

Givenchy is survived by his companion, French couturier Philippe Venet.

SOURCE: CBC.ca

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